Surfing in Japan
When I go to the beach, my first thought was that it is in free fall, I saw a face perfectly prepared vehicles, about 6-8ft, where the largest pic rule broken, and I began to think the invasion of my Council Board of if the scenes come through, I never saw a wave, the pause in shinko away, since he is no longer in my heart. The wave seemed to completely break the left and right are symmetrical, it appears reduced, but it was very big. I looked this perfect wave with offshore facilities off the coast of bubbles through the viewfinder of my camera, so passionately that the device seemed to disappear in my hands, the God of the Huey waves, as we call it Aussies had Stoke hochgeschnellt with me, I quickly Brûlé two rolls of film was then decided that enough is just the time to look and this force of nature explodes in front of me. I was sitting on the tail of my door Toyota 4runner for two or three hours with the biggest smile, which I had for years, God, that it is good, a surfer.
Typhoon 12 has blessed us with a few days cleaning, offshore 3-4ft waves, as they pulled to the north between us, is one of the best that I had, surfing. I do not know if I ever go 20ft waves, the head of doubling seems almost perfect for me, at this time, but before that I did not want the waves to try. After the waves break, and always in my mind, I feel like something has changed, it may take a few years before I tried surfing great, but the seeds of temptation is now firmly planted in my mind, who knows how.
Who knows what it is that attracts us surfing so intense, but it has an impact on me so much that I was not without him. As I sat there and watched the waves break completely empty to me, I have a little time to think about my life harder. I do not know what it is about by with empty waves, which I consider as after they are never a religious person, I wonder whether it is a religious experience. I thought of the many great and terrible things that I saw and experienced since my first wave before 4 years. Garbage orientations, the coasts of Japan wrecking havoc on the life of the seas, the big sea turtles, I have it in the deaths of dozens stranded on the coast of Sendai, dying probably wrong plastic bags for jellyfish, the masses, the steady decline - ins, A man was in negative, but for all the things that coursed through my mind afternoon that the only thing that distance, like surfing, a sport easier for many people to do so many people in all friendship, the group of boys with surf I have little in common, but our security, the mutual love riding waves is a real blessing.
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